Chilika Lake in Orissa - Photographer's Delight

People in Orissa always speak of Chilika lake as one of the chief natural attraction of the state. The promotional literature if full of superlatives : the largest coastal wetland in Asia, home to species of birds, mammals and fish. And so forth. Despite the hype, it was hard, until recently, far a visitor to really get to know the place. To be sure, one could stop at Balugaon and take a fishing – boat out to Kalijal Island or the Nalabana bird Sanctuary. But short trips like these only hint at Chilika’s diversity.

Towards the end of November 2005, an Oriya friend and I learned that an “eco – tourism” camp had just been set up on an island near Rambha, at the southern end of the lake. On our way further south we stopped in and made reservations. When we returned two days later, the staff was ready to take us out.

The eco camp is located on an islet called Sanakuda, about seven kilometers off Rambha. In a motorized launch, the trip took half an hour. We were met at the jetty by the resort’s manager, Mr. Das, and shown our accommodation: a blue nylon tent on a plastered brick platform, with a corner partitioned off as bathroom. The beds looked inviting, but we didn’t have time to relax. An excursion had been organized to visit the sea – beach and we joined another couple in the launch. The water was shallow almost all the way, and we admired the estuarine flora and fauna; green sea grasses, White Sea anemones and swarms of scurrying fish that sometime leapt us in the sunlight.

The beach is on the seaward side of the sandy spit of land that divides the lake from the Bay of Bengal. Walking through a casuarinas plantation, we soon found ourselves on a stretch of fine brown sand sloping down to the clear green surf. The waves, surprisingly, were large and well – formed and we enjoyed some good body – surfing. The water had a certain lightness about it: no sediment, no algae, no jellyfish. After our swim, we ambled down to a nearby fishing villahe. The men were casting their nets beyond the breakers, the women watching over the morning’s catch as it dried in the afternoon sun. Back on the island, we found that our lunch was waiting. Prepared for coarse camp fare – rice, dal, perhaps some chapattis – were pleasantly surprised to find not only these standbys, but also a salad, a vegetable dish and an excellent crab curry. On enquiry we learned that the chef, C.H Raju, had five year’s experience in the Oberoi chain of hotels!

After lunch we talked with Lalatendu Mahapatra, the tour manager of a firm which has financed and built the camp. He told us about their approach to camp. To me the term meant visiting places where the environment is unspoiled and leaving them that way when you depart. That is part of ot, Lalatendu explained, but the key is community participation. Local people are not displaced by urban – based business, but encouraged to take part in the development and maintenance of the site. Most of the workers in camp are inhabitants of the island. Ramesh Tahal, who laid our campfire that evening, had studied upto class X in a mainland school, but preferred a steady job at the resort to an uncertain future as a member of educated unemployed.

Community participation means that the Eco Camp is not one of those “tropical paradises” built for well – heeled, with a fence around to keep the ‘native’ out. Old people and children wander freely into the campsite, adding greatly to its warmth and charm,. The normal economic life of the region goes on around you. Fishermen cast their nets from motor driven boats. Prawn farmers tend their enclosures. Ecology is often viewed as having to do with photogenic animals and plants, but not with human beings. But Homo sapiens is the species that impacts most strongly on the environment. An eco – tourism project that doesn’t not take this account is indulging in romantic fictions.

The next day, I got up early and took a walk around the island, following a path on the apron of rock and grass which lies between the lake and the interior. At the western end is a cluster of huts where people tending their prawn – nets stay. Just opposite is a peninsula with a couple of fishing villages. Beyond that is mainland Orissa. The conical peaks of he Eastern Ghats come down almost to the shore. At their feet runs the Howrah – Chennai line. Every half hour or so, a train goes whistling and clattering by.

A Kilometer off the eastern end of Sanakuda is a larger island called Barakuda. The channel between them looked swimmable, When I announced this back at the campsite, I soon found myself accepting a dare to try it. An extempore expedition was organized, with me in my Speedo and the others in motorized raft. I got off to head start while they started the outboard. Soon, I was in water too deep to stand up in, wondering what were the largest life forms that Chilika supported. Swimming leisurely, I completed the crossing in around twenty minutes – pretty slow but my companions were amazed by my feat. To my worst fear, A few minute later, I noticed a herd of water buffalo sporting in the water near the shore. I thought Did they roam wild on the island?

Barakuda is sometimes known as “ Honeymoon island” because it was used by the Raja of Khallikot for his royal entertainer and entertainment. He had two ‘palaces’ built for the purpose, which are now dilapidated ruins. Completing our exploration, we headed back to Sanakuda. On the way, One of the boatman pointed excitedly offshore. It was a pair of Irrawaddy dolphins, the most beautiful if not the largest life – forms that Chilika supports. Otherwise, the wildlife in and around Chilika lake was mostly avian. Had we been their in January, we would have seen nesting flamingos.

Back at the campsite, we had another late lunch. Raju outdid himself again. His fish in mustard sauce was, quite simply, the best Indian meal I have ever had. My companion passed the afternoon enjoying a view of hill – ringed lake from the comfort of a chaise longue. I preferred to continue my wanderings. At dusk, the quietest part of the day, She joined me on the shore. We watched the sun go down behind the hills : A scene so perfect for camera. The most wonderful moment for a photographer and a traveler.

The next day there wasn’t time for any major expedition, so we both stayed close to the campsite. And managed to speak with the owner of resort Mr. Tahal. His stories about the island and the resort are amazing and must say he is full of stories and he is good humorous guy. Not only that, we also had our chance to have word with the executives of company who are working on to Save the biodiversity of Chilika Lake. The have been trying to create awareness and must Salute their noble work.

We took launch back to Rambha an hour before we had to in order to Visit Bird Island and Breakfast Island. Bird Island’s guano – covered boulders are the home of migratory birds who reach the lake too late to find a place in the Nalabana Sanctuary. Breakfast Island is not an island at all but a man made extravagance. Towards the beginning of the century, the Raja asked a British officer to build an obelisk to mark some dangerous rocks at the entrance of Rambha’s harbor. The Briton got so caught up in his task, that after completing the obelisk, he added a little stone house. He like this so much, he got into the habit of taking his breakfast there. While sipping his tea, he went through some files and received petitioners. What began as an amusement ended as an obsession? Eventually he was sacked for incompetence.

At the Rambha jetty we were met by an auto rickshaw, which took us to the office to settle our account, and then to the town’s tiny station. Soon I was sitting in one of those trains that whistle and clatter along the shore. Was that our Island? May be – or maybe not. Looking out the dusk – grey surface of the lake, I thought of a couplet by Oriya poet Radhanath :
Raha raha khyane bashpiya – shakata/
Dehibi Chilika charu chita – pata.
(Stop for a moment, steam – locomotive/
Let me see Chilika’s picture – perfect charm.)

I climbed up in the luggage rack with my novel and iPod which were untouched since past 3 days when I was in island. Arrived at Bhubaneswar three hours later and were transferred to hotel. This three days spent at Chilika lake was one of the most memorable days and most awesome trip as an explorer for my company Ulltimate Travels.

Once again Chilika lake and Orissa is calling me back in the month of September 2011. I personally look forward to learn few more tips and tricks of photography during this upcoming trip and would love to share my knowledge and experience about traveling in different part of India and Nepal as an explorer. Details of photo tour to Orissa are available at photographytours.in.

Also, I request all of you to at least write me back with your comments and feedback of this trip report. You can directly reach me at roshan@ulltimate.in. Not only that keep revisiting the website for further trip reports and my personal experience as an explorer within India and Nepal.

With love
Roshan Raj
Photographytours.in – Unit of Ulltimate Travels